At 9:00 on a Sunday morning, there's barely a soul to be seen on the streets of this picturesque Bavarian village. Although it's only 35 km north of Munich, Freising retains an old-world charm that seems relatively untouched by modern commercialization.
Walking the narrow cobblestone streets, we pass centuries-old stucco buildings featuring the ubiquitous red-tiled roofs so representative of old German architecture, many with huge double, arched doors fastened with cast iron hardware. Cascades of bright flowers tumble over knee-high picket fences, while wrought iron walkways connect buildings over a shallow brook filled with fat carp.
Freising is one of the oldest known villages in Bavaria, believed to have been founded in the Bronze Age. It's famous for its two hills, Domberg and Weihenstephan.
A shrine was settled here by Saint Corbinian who, rumour has it, ordered a bear to carry his gear over the alps after it had killed his packhorse, after which he turned it loose to return to its native forest. The story is rife with symbolism - the submission of the bear to Saint Corbinian represents the taming of paganism by Christianity.
Freising became an important religious centre during the Middle Ages; the twin-towered Cathedral and bishop's castle that top Domberg hill in the town's centre remain a self-contained Episcopal quarter and the seat of the diocese to this day. The bear has become the city's symbol, featured not only on the coat of arms but throughout the village in brightly coloured statues that appear on sidewalks and outside shops.
Strolling through the side streets, we see many narrow alleyways that lead to either tiny courtyards ringed by shops and bakeries, or small public gardens – quiet oases in the town's centre. Surrounded by crumbling archways, wooden shutters, and ancient stone fountains, we're struck by the atmosphere of timelessness. It's easy to imagine the clatter of hoofbeats ringing against the worn cobblestone.
As we climbed the steep hill (or Domberg, for Cathedral Hill) towards the Cathedral, the bells begin to ring. A lovely, mellifluous sound, it continued until people began to appear and slowly make their way toward the Romanesque Cathedral. There was something rather peaceful in their serene, unhurried progression that compelled us to join them and enter the cathedral. The soaring, vaulted ceilings and richly decorated Baroque architecture was awe-inspiring and humbling.
The Domberg is also home to the Diozesanmuseum, containing Germany's largest ecclesiastic collection. The vast selection of paintings includes two by the master Rubens. There are several intricately sculpted re-enactments of famous religious themes, fascinating in detail and some shockingly grisly.
The second hill, Weihenstephan, is home to the Weihenstephan Abbey, settled in 725 by monks – who promptly began what is now known as the world's oldest brewery.
Weihenstephan beer is enjoyed all over Germany, and exported to many countries around the world.
We enjoy a leisurely break at one of the many sidewalk patios – the air redolent with the intoxicating smell of baking bread and fresh brewed coffee. I opt for cappuccino, while my colleagues sample the Weihenstephan brew and exhale deep sighs of satisfaction.
Despite Freising's proximity to Munich and the airport, a flight ban over the city ensures that its tranquility remains undisturbed. But the excellent S-bahn train system makes Freising a compelling choice for commuters – its population of 48,000 enjoys an excellent standard of living with only 2.1% unemployment rate.
Gazing around at the lovely stucco architecture, tidy streets, and a character untainted by crass commercialsm, one can only hope that Freising doesn't become too attractive to the commuter set. It would be a shame to see its charm lost forever.
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| Photo: Lesley Wimbush/Auto123.com |
Walking the narrow cobblestone streets, we pass centuries-old stucco buildings featuring the ubiquitous red-tiled roofs so representative of old German architecture, many with huge double, arched doors fastened with cast iron hardware. Cascades of bright flowers tumble over knee-high picket fences, while wrought iron walkways connect buildings over a shallow brook filled with fat carp.
Freising is one of the oldest known villages in Bavaria, believed to have been founded in the Bronze Age. It's famous for its two hills, Domberg and Weihenstephan.
A shrine was settled here by Saint Corbinian who, rumour has it, ordered a bear to carry his gear over the alps after it had killed his packhorse, after which he turned it loose to return to its native forest. The story is rife with symbolism - the submission of the bear to Saint Corbinian represents the taming of paganism by Christianity.
Freising became an important religious centre during the Middle Ages; the twin-towered Cathedral and bishop's castle that top Domberg hill in the town's centre remain a self-contained Episcopal quarter and the seat of the diocese to this day. The bear has become the city's symbol, featured not only on the coat of arms but throughout the village in brightly coloured statues that appear on sidewalks and outside shops.
Strolling through the side streets, we see many narrow alleyways that lead to either tiny courtyards ringed by shops and bakeries, or small public gardens – quiet oases in the town's centre. Surrounded by crumbling archways, wooden shutters, and ancient stone fountains, we're struck by the atmosphere of timelessness. It's easy to imagine the clatter of hoofbeats ringing against the worn cobblestone.
As we climbed the steep hill (or Domberg, for Cathedral Hill) towards the Cathedral, the bells begin to ring. A lovely, mellifluous sound, it continued until people began to appear and slowly make their way toward the Romanesque Cathedral. There was something rather peaceful in their serene, unhurried progression that compelled us to join them and enter the cathedral. The soaring, vaulted ceilings and richly decorated Baroque architecture was awe-inspiring and humbling.
 |
| Photo: Lesley Wimbush/Auto123.com |
The Domberg is also home to the Diozesanmuseum, containing Germany's largest ecclesiastic collection. The vast selection of paintings includes two by the master Rubens. There are several intricately sculpted re-enactments of famous religious themes, fascinating in detail and some shockingly grisly.
The second hill, Weihenstephan, is home to the Weihenstephan Abbey, settled in 725 by monks – who promptly began what is now known as the world's oldest brewery.
Weihenstephan beer is enjoyed all over Germany, and exported to many countries around the world.
We enjoy a leisurely break at one of the many sidewalk patios – the air redolent with the intoxicating smell of baking bread and fresh brewed coffee. I opt for cappuccino, while my colleagues sample the Weihenstephan brew and exhale deep sighs of satisfaction.
Despite Freising's proximity to Munich and the airport, a flight ban over the city ensures that its tranquility remains undisturbed. But the excellent S-bahn train system makes Freising a compelling choice for commuters – its population of 48,000 enjoys an excellent standard of living with only 2.1% unemployment rate.
Gazing around at the lovely stucco architecture, tidy streets, and a character untainted by crass commercialsm, one can only hope that Freising doesn't become too attractive to the commuter set. It would be a shame to see its charm lost forever.